Anyways, due to the potential voltage variation on a modular set-up and the delicate nature of maintaining certain light levels on especially outdoor lights, voltage regulators are a must.
Now this may not seem important but let's look long term. The Walthers streetlights like to operate, and are rated for 12 volts. Running them at 16 volts will not blow the bulbs right away and put off more light. With them up at that voltage, they really put off some light. Seems a bit too bright though. Reducing the voltage considerably extends the life of any bulb. (This hasn't been to thoroughly tested on LEDs due to their extremely long life under normal conditions.) With incandescent lights in particular, they get very hot when operated above their voltage, thus having the potential of melting any close plastics.
I finally came up with a solution for my grade crossing. It's only in the early part of the installation but the feel is already coming across. I have one of the ITTP HQ sound modules hooked up to a 3" speaker. Only one of the infrared detectors has been installed for the Signalogic circuit, which triggers the sound. (Hopefully the crossing arms soon, too!) They recommended installing the sensor and light at an angle relative to each other for reduced issues with false triggering with lights. Since these won't always have the same lighting on them at all of the potential locations these will be set up at, less headaches are a must. I went the infrared route due to my liking of night ops, and let's face it, photocells just can't do it. I'll show the location of these later on. ; ) (NJI crossing gates)
I haven't gotten a good shot of the custom table and chairs in the out of business café, so here it is. I still need to install the glass and the upstairs walls and lights but it looks good so far!
See you next month!
